For the do-it-yourselfer, his woodworking workshop is like a second home – working on workpieces, he relaxes from the stress of everyday life and also likes to forget about time.
Working with Wood
So that the do-it-yourselfer can enjoy his workshop for a long time, he cannot avoid keeping it in good shape. In addition to regular care and maintenance of your work equipment, this also includes maintaining a certain order. Create fixed places for your utensils: retaining strips and individually divisible drawers for devices and work utensils ensure a tidy workplace. Especially if you only have little space available, your discipline to keep order must be all the greater – otherwise, chaos reigns quickly. Since chips and dust are considered carcinogenic, it makes sense to purchase a workshop vacuum cleaner with an automatic socket and overrun, especially in poorly ventilated rooms.
Yourself Expert Tip – The Center of The Workshop
Without the appropriate equipment, working in the workshop is no fun and can also be very tedious. How much space your workbench, cabinets, and shelves take up depends primarily on your available space, but not least on your needs.
If you “only” want to carry out smaller jobs, a foldable workbench is actually sufficient. The larger and more extensive projects you want to realize, the better you should be equipped – this applies to both the furniture and the tools. When buying, please pay attention to quality because the poor quality of the work equipment usually also affects the works produced with it.
Purchase, Transport, and Storage of Wood
Hardware stores and specialist shops offer an abundance of wood products – however, be careful when buying and examine the goods critically to see whether they are free of defects and therefore worth your money.
Wood is high quality and versatile material. And it comes at a price. As long as you get flawless goods, this is entirely justified. However, quality cannot be taken for granted – wood must be treated appropriately throughout the entire production chain. There are many people involved, and wherever people work, they sometimes make mistakes. So that you don’t have to pay for these defects, you should carefully check the goods when buying them: Obvious defects in the wood structure such as resin pockets are unattractive on visible surfaces and contaminate the tool; they can be accepted with construction timber. The situation is different with branches in wood. In construction timber subjected to loads, the load-bearing capacity is impaired due to strong knots. For other wood products, a decision must be made on a case-by-case basis. Under no circumstances should you accept drying cracks; This makes strips and battens unusable. Often you can find bowl-shaped wood, which is caused by shrinkage in strips or poor glued wood – if it is slightly deformed, the wood can still be used.
Even a Practical Tip – Take a Look at The Situation
Deformations are not always immediately apparent. You will get ultimate security with woods if you aim for them along their length: Curvature or rotation are more noticeable due to the shortened perspective. In the plates with inconspicuous rotation or bowls, spirit levels help determine the deviations from the plane.
With the help of two spirit levels, you can see minimal deformations; by aiming for a rotation and curvature of the wood.
Already Knew? – When The Wood Has a Hole
You don’t always get completely knot-free wood – but you don’t have to put up with the annoying structural defects. In the hardware stores, you can get transverse wooden dowels in different types of wood, the diameter of which corresponds to common drill bit formats. You can cut out branches with a Forstner bit and glue them in a suitable wooden dowel at this point. This makes the object as stable and as easy to paint as knot-free goods.
Special care is also required when transporting the timber you have bought: Even if the way to your home is so short, you must secure the strips and boards on a roof rack so that they are roadworthy. Otherwise, there is a risk that the wood will slip sideways or backward or shoot forwards in the event of an emergency braking, causing property damage – or worse – injuring other road users.
For example, tension belts with a ratchet lock are very suitable for securing (see photos above right). Position the wood lengthways in the middle of the roof rack and connect it to the front and rear cross braces of the roof rack with a tensioning strap. To prevent a board from sliding forward, an additional belt must be tensioned crosswise at this point. If you want to transport several strips and are forced to stack them, you should secure each layer separately. This will prevent the strips from loosening from the middle and possibly slipping out.
If your pieces of wood protrude more than a meter above your car, you must also mark your transport goods for road users behind you with a red flag (30 x 30 cm). So the other is warned and can adjust his distance to the conditions.
In general, the motto should be: only buy wood when you really need it and process it as quickly as possible. Because woodworks absorb or release moisture during storage, leading to the wood expanding, contracting, or bulging and possibly becoming unusable.
Should you still have to store wood, please note the following: Never lean strips against the wall; they will only deform too quickly into unwanted hockey sticks. Glued wood and solid wood panels should be stored horizontally on top of each other – if there is enough space available; Make sure, however, to put two wooden spacers between each layer to ensure adequate ventilation all around.
Vertical storage of panels only makes sense in stable shelves.
Small strips between the boards ensure good ventilation.
Plates can also be used for short-term storage.
Necessary Work Equipment
If you want to work with wood in your workshop, you need solid tools. How extensive your equipment needs to depend largely on how deep you want to get into woodworking – the tools are shown here represent a possible selection.
Before you buy a tool, get by. Then it may be worth investing in stationary devices or at least in module carriers that allow the use of handheld electrical tools as stationary devices. While do-it-yourself furniture construction often relies on effective and simple connections (here a lot of screwing, butt gluing, and, if necessary, reinforced with round or flat dowels), solid wood carpenter taps are still old-school in traditional craftsmanship, over bladed and notched. Many tools are used that are not even listed here. An increasingly mobile society values furniture that, thanks to connecting fittings, can be quickly and easily dismantled for problem-free relocation. Gluing plays a rather subordinate role here.
A. Here, we have used a selection of power tools that we consider useful as basic equipment in the hobby workshop.
- A hand-held circular saw with a guide rail enables panels to be cut to the millimeter. Long cuts, miter cuts, and plunge cuts are also possible with this device.
- A powerful drill with a Euro neck can also be used in the drill stand and continues where the cordless screwdriver’s performance limit has been reached.
- Important in the workshop: A vacuum cleaner with an automatic socket switches itself when the connected device is put into operation.
- The router is wrongly feared by many. It offers countless processing options such as folding, chamfering, rounding, and much more.
- The cordless drill driver shouldn’t save: choose a two-speed machine with two Li-Ion batteries, a quick charger, and a torque setting.
- The eccentric sander is a universal surface sander.
- The jigsaw is a versatile cutting talent for curves but also for cutouts.
B. Most jobs that can do with special power tools can also be done cleanly with hand tools. You will also find the basic equipment here.
- Chisels are used to chisel wood: with mortise and tenon joints and when inserting a furniture lock.
- Chisels are driven into the wood with a mallet – not with a steel hammer!
- In combination with the precision saw, the miter box enables right-angled and 45 ° cuts of strips.
- You can use the angle to control.
- The dividers are a marking aid for round components.
- You can hardly have enough and long models (these are called farmhands) of glue clamps and clamps.
- Ratchet lashing straps are also a gluing aid for frame and box furniture.
- Files are good for breaking and smoothing edges.
- The folding rule (actually a folding rule) and a sharp pencil are essential.
- The sanding block does the targeted fine and edge sanding.
Many do-it-yourselfers disdain this carpenter’s tool – it creates perfect surfaces with little effort.
No other hand tool produces such smooth wooden surfaces as a plane – accordingly, the wood should be roughened a little with fine sandpaper before the final coating so that the glaze or varnish can adhere adequately. Precise work is possible with a plane, especially on the edges of the workpiece – sandpaper would create an unwanted curve here, and a similarly even removal cannot be achieved with a file. Whether wood or metal planes are a matter of taste – technically, both models work the same. German carpenters prefer the traditional version made of wood, while their British colleagues almost exclusively use metal planes.
In the classic wooden plane, the knife is clamped in the jaw of the plane with a wooden wedge. Too many inexperienced users seem a little imponderable, but it works reliably and is easier to handle than expected. Corrections can be made even if the knife is not exactly in position after assembly (see right-hand side): light hits on the metal button on the back of the plane cause the knife to be released; lateral corrections can be made hitting the knife side. The plane is correctly adjusted when the knife protrudes just a touch when it is aligned over the plane. If the setting is correct, fix the wooden wedge with a light hammer blow in the planer’s mouth – a light clamp is sufficient.
Modern wooden planes with a clamping device or retaining screw make it easier to adjust the planer knife; the technology is based on the structure of metal planes, which are generally provided with adjusting screws. In this way, even inexperienced users can make exact fine adjustments.
Even if the plane sole comprises particularly resistant pockwood, the wood plane should be treated with care. Therefore, do not plan any hard materials such as plastics to avoid scoring. The knife should be sharpened at regular intervals – it is usually sufficient to work with a whetstone wetted with water or oil.
Yourself Product Info – Planer Structure
The choice between wood and metal planes for high-quality specimens is more a matter of preference. What speaks in favor of wood planes is that wood is easier to handle and protects the workpiece surface, while metal planes hardly wear out. For furniture construction, you should generally use double planes because the flap, which is mounted slightly backward above the knife, breaks the wood chips and ensures a low level of tearing. The planer knife should generally only protrude minimally from the planer sole so that the material removal during planing can be metered as precisely as possible. In addition, this also minimizes the tearing of the fibers from the wood surface.
Already Knew? – The Chip Breaks
- Two factors are decisive for a perfect work result – a sharp planning knife and breaking the wood fibers in the removed chip as early as possible.
- If the mouth of the planer is too wide, the wood will be torn rather than cut – the surface will inevitably be wavy.
- If the setting is correct, a fine surface can be achieved with a simple plane. However, in most cases, the mouth width cannot be adjusted.
- With the double planer, the flap ensures that the chip is broken immediately after the cut – then the wood can no longer tear.
Yourself Practical Tip – Work Technique
- You will achieve the best results with a sharp knife with a fine setting. The planer knife only takes a fragile chip.
- Clamp your workpiece in such a way that you can machine it in long planes along the grain. A workbench offers optimal possibilities because the wood can be fixed parallel to the edge of the workbench with the front pliers.
- It is best to stand in a slight step next to the workbench so that you can exert an even forward thrust on the planer over the entire working length – this guarantees a smooth planning result. After each swing, lift the plane off the material and return it to its starting position without contact with the wood.
- Grasp the planer with both hands, with your preferred hand pushing the planer box – or the push handle for metal planes. There are special wooden planes with a mirror-image horn; metal planes do not have to be adjusted.
So Everything Holds Together Tightly
Clamping tools are part of the basic equipment of a wood workshop – here, we present the most common types of clamps.
Whether you want to fix pieces of wood during processing or press them firmly together while gluing – you cannot do without clamps and other clamping tools.
The most common clamping tool is the screw clamp; she has one fixed, and one movable Clamping arm, which is on the metal web slide steplessly and thus in one certain framework of the size of the workpiece can be adjusted. Edit it often larger workpieces, can the acquisition of servants with great Well worth the span.
Plastic flaps on the clamping points avoid pressure points on the workpiece; work on softwood, recom It makes sense to have a piece of leftover wood to put in between.
The small spring clips are ideal for gluing narrow workpieces. In general, however, quick-release clamps do not apply as much force as screw clamps, which can transmit a relatively high clamping pressure. Glue clamps are mainly used for lighter work, where not so much pressure has to be exerted. They are tensioned via an eccentric lever.
Yourself Product Info – Alternating
One-hand quick-release clamps only achieve lower clamping forces, but they are more versatile. Workpieces are pressed apart to provide joints with glue and then fix them again.